Fashion 1890-1930
This period displayed a major shift in fashion due to the influence of the arts and later WW1. The artistic and aesthetic
movements continued to champion looser practical clothing. The performance of Scheherazade by the Ballet Russe in Paris
influenced the Parisienne designers to produce slimmer silhouettes. WW1 shortened the amount of fabric available for clothing
and hemlines as well as reinforcing the practical requirements of clothing for the newly working woman. Prior to WW1, clothing
was fashioned to display wealth of those who already had it as well as those who have newly acquired it. Due to the shortages
imposed by the impending extensive and prolonged war, clothing had to be efficient and functional.
Cloth
Cotton, silks and wools and their combinations continued to be popular. Flannel increased in popularity. Silks continued to be
weighted but sheer materials were also popular. During the war years, garments were frequently knitted or crocheted.
Manufacture:
Duchess Cuffs
Point Venice Collar Cluny Lace
Style
Early 1890s dresses consisted of a tight bodice with the skirt gathered at the waist and falling more naturally over the hips and
undergarments than in previous years. Bodices were known as shirtwaists and tailored as a man’s shirt with its high collar. In
the 1900s the shirtwaist flared in front to the pigeon breast shirt. This produced the appearance of a large bust with large hips
and a very narrow waist. Toward the end of the decade, the waist thickened, the bust and hips slimmed, and the corset
eventually disappeared.
Pigeon Breast shirt Gored skirt with matching suit jacket Lingerie dress
Gored skirts were popular as opposed to gathered skirts. Hems inched up to ankle length for walking suits or daily wear in
response to the practical reality of dirty streets and time consuming techniques for washing clothes. The 1900s saw a return to
floor length dresses with trains but then reversed course toward the end of the decade to much shorter skirts. Fancy dress still
retained small trains. Less was more as far as trimming for dresses at this time. Unfortunately the corset continued, but was on
its way out by the late 1900s as style continued to simplify and become more practical to the way people actually lived.
Continuing the artistic and aesthetic movements of the previous period in tea dresses, lingerie dresses or translucent linen or
cotton gowns trimmed with pintucks, lace and embroidery were acceptable even outside the home. This trend toward slimmer
and less fussy dressing continued with the introduction in Paris toward the end of the decade of a relatively high waisted
straight dress—ultimately the dress that identified the American 1920s and the flapper. In 1910, Paris was under the influence
of the Ballet Russe and its performance of Scherazade. The influence of the turkish bloomers and straight lines combined with
the straight lines of the kimono influenced fashion throughout the decade.
Slim higher waisted dress and fox stole from 1910 Paris
Women, in the late portion of the 1910 decade began to wear suits with long matching jackets and skirts. This trend to practical
clothing combined with the economy imposed by WW1, including shortened skirts and darkened colors.
Shoes were practical as well. Heels were curved. Gaiters were worn in winter. Working shoes were laced up front while
dance shoes had crissed crossed straps.
Most coats were cocoon or kimono shaped, wide through the shoulders and narrower at the hem. Fur coats were popular.
This practicality extended to a new category of clothing – sportswear. Changing attitudes about acceptable activities for women
also made sportswear popular for women, with such notable examples as the bicycling dress, the tennis dress, the golf dress,
the bathing costume, the bicycling dress and the automobile dress. Wikipedia notes:
The notion of "rational dress" for women's health was a widely discussed topic in 1891, which led to the development of sports
dress. This included ample skirts with a belted blouse for hockey. In addition, cycling became very popular and led to the
development of "cycling costumes", which were shorter skirts or "bloomers" which were Turkish trouser style outfits. By the
1890s, women bicyclists increasingly wore bloomers in public and in the company of men as well as other women. Bloomers
seem to have been more commonly worn in Paris than in England or the United States and became quite popular and
fashionable. Swimwear was also developed, usually made of navy blue with a long tunic over full knickers.
Large hats were worn with both day and evening wear at the beginning of the century but by the end of the decade, hats had
smaller drooping brims that shaded the face and deep crowns. Hairstyles shifted from the long trussed hair of the Gibson Girl to
the shorter bob later in the decade.
Trousseaux of the time might include:
For Lady Doll
Shirtwaist
Gored Skirts for day wear
Evening Gown
Coat
Lingerie
For Girl Doll
Multiple dresses
Sailor suits
Multiple hats and bonnets to go with the dresses
Capes
Pelisses
Jacket
Petticaot
Corset
White or brown boots
Gaiters (covering over front of foooooooot with a strap under the instep
Stole and muff
Belt
Parasol
Jewlery, fan, chatelaine and purse
Toilette articles
Sewing supplies
The Kate Greenaway style, the move to practical fashions and the push for more active lifestyles combined to allow girls
freedom in their clothes. High waisted Kate Greenaway styles persisted but bloomers and woolen jerseys were acceptable for
a concept newly appreciated in this era-play. Girls’ dresses were even made with short sleeves to allow more freedom for play.
Girls wore dresses of knee length, with trimmings at the hem such as lace and embroidery similar to women's lingerie dresses.
Normally, black shoes and woolen stockings went with the dress. Their hair was generally worn long and curly with decorations
of ribbon.
Children from 1890-1920s in original clothing
Dolls representing infants were rare. The layettes were generally professionally or home made. The layettes were similar to
the preceding period though the doll may have a rattle added to the layette.
Fashionable clothing for boys included sailor suits, consisting a shirt with a sailor collar and trousers or knickerbockers. For
automobiling, boys wore a duster with knickerbockers, a flat cap, and goggles. The Russian tunic was still popular for boys and
worn over knickers. Overalls and blouse represented little farmers. Dolls representing men usually wore military attire and
costuming appropriate to their position in the doll house.
Resources
Coleman, Dorothy, Elizabeth, and Evelyn. Collector's Book of Dolls' Clothes Costumes in Miniature: 1700-1929. New York:
Crown Publishers 1975.
Gosh, Pat. www.dollcostumersguild.com Site for information on making appropriate period costumes for dolls
Maginnis, Tara, http://www.costumes.org. Site is well organized with excellent pictures and links.
Trestain, Eileen. Dating Fabrics A Color Guide 1800-1960. American Quilters Society, Paducah Ky. 1998.
www.vintageconnection.net resource for information on period costumes including fastenings
www.offray.com resource for history of ribbon
www.fashion-era.com
www.hal.ucr.edu Site for information on Regency dress
www.spnea.org New England History Museum
www.straw.com Reference for the history of dyes
www.vroma.org Reference regarding dress of the Roman Empire
www.history.com History Channel collection of articles
www.pastpatterns.com Overview of history of fashion and person sized patterns from many fashion periods
www.gallery.vintagehatshop.com Resource with pictures of headware throughout history
www.orignals-by-kay.com Overview of history of fashion and patterns from many periods
www.koshka-the-cat.com Overview of history of fashion and person sized patterns from many fashion periods
www.robinstokes.com 1860s prints from Godeys
www.history.rochester.edu/godeys 1850s prints from Godeys
www.usc.edu/e_resources Complete Godeys Ladies Book 1830-1880. Must be a member of USC to access electronically.
Other colleges also have access to this complete information. Contact your local University library for information.
www.marlamallett.com Exquisite examples of lace from her personal collection
movements continued to champion looser practical clothing. The performance of Scheherazade by the Ballet Russe in Paris
influenced the Parisienne designers to produce slimmer silhouettes. WW1 shortened the amount of fabric available for clothing
and hemlines as well as reinforcing the practical requirements of clothing for the newly working woman. Prior to WW1, clothing
was fashioned to display wealth of those who already had it as well as those who have newly acquired it. Due to the shortages
imposed by the impending extensive and prolonged war, clothing had to be efficient and functional.
Cloth
Cotton, silks and wools and their combinations continued to be popular. Flannel increased in popularity. Silks continued to be
weighted but sheer materials were also popular. During the war years, garments were frequently knitted or crocheted.
Manufacture:
- Natural fibers were produced in greater amounts with similar processes as previously. However, two advances in fabric
manufacture occurred during this time. Silk was artificially made from wood and rayon was developed.
Also, during this time, dolls were printed, front and back, on fabric for home sewing.
- Two advances in clothing appeared at this time. First was the continued increase in types of dyes. Second was the
development of synthetic fibers, notably rayon in 1891.
1890 Direct Black BH, first direct black
1891 Diamine Green B, first green azo dye
1891 Chardonnet built his first commercial plant at Besancon for manufacturing rayon, by the Chardonnet process.
1891 Direct dye-Sky Blue FF, important blue for many years, good light fastness
1893 2nd Sulphur dye, Vidal Black
1895 Viscose method of making rayon invented by Cross and Bevan, England was begun. This is now the most
common process for manufacture of rayon.
1898 Direct Black E, a black dye of major importance
1900 When Mozaffer ed Din became Shah of Persia one of his first edicts was to prohibit the use of analine dyes for
rugs. All analine dyes were seized and publicly burned. Penalties included jail and fines equal to double the value of
the merchandise.
1901 Rene Bohn patented his invention of Indanthrene Blue RS, the first anthraquinone vat dye, a category of dyes
with extremely good fastness to light and washing
1901 Bohn developed 2nd vat dye, Flanthrene a yellow
1902 Thesmar, Baumann, Descamps, and Frossard brought out hydrosulfite and sulfoxylateformaldehyde.
1905 Thio-indigo Red, by Freidlander, 1st indigoid dye
1908 Hydron Blue, a rival to indigo, developed by Cassella
1914 USA importing 90% of its dye stuffs, a problem during WWI, as many came from Germany.
1915 Neolan dye, 1st metallized chrome dye, dyed from strong acid bath
- Lace including samples such as:
Duchess Cuffs
Point Venice Collar Cluny Lace
- Ribbon
Braid
Rick rack
Galloon
Embroidery
Hooks with triple strands of wire
Style
Early 1890s dresses consisted of a tight bodice with the skirt gathered at the waist and falling more naturally over the hips and
undergarments than in previous years. Bodices were known as shirtwaists and tailored as a man’s shirt with its high collar. In
the 1900s the shirtwaist flared in front to the pigeon breast shirt. This produced the appearance of a large bust with large hips
and a very narrow waist. Toward the end of the decade, the waist thickened, the bust and hips slimmed, and the corset
eventually disappeared.
Pigeon Breast shirt Gored skirt with matching suit jacket Lingerie dress
Gored skirts were popular as opposed to gathered skirts. Hems inched up to ankle length for walking suits or daily wear in
response to the practical reality of dirty streets and time consuming techniques for washing clothes. The 1900s saw a return to
floor length dresses with trains but then reversed course toward the end of the decade to much shorter skirts. Fancy dress still
retained small trains. Less was more as far as trimming for dresses at this time. Unfortunately the corset continued, but was on
its way out by the late 1900s as style continued to simplify and become more practical to the way people actually lived.
Continuing the artistic and aesthetic movements of the previous period in tea dresses, lingerie dresses or translucent linen or
cotton gowns trimmed with pintucks, lace and embroidery were acceptable even outside the home. This trend toward slimmer
and less fussy dressing continued with the introduction in Paris toward the end of the decade of a relatively high waisted
straight dress—ultimately the dress that identified the American 1920s and the flapper. In 1910, Paris was under the influence
of the Ballet Russe and its performance of Scherazade. The influence of the turkish bloomers and straight lines combined with
the straight lines of the kimono influenced fashion throughout the decade.
Slim higher waisted dress and fox stole from 1910 Paris
Women, in the late portion of the 1910 decade began to wear suits with long matching jackets and skirts. This trend to practical
clothing combined with the economy imposed by WW1, including shortened skirts and darkened colors.
Shoes were practical as well. Heels were curved. Gaiters were worn in winter. Working shoes were laced up front while
dance shoes had crissed crossed straps.
Most coats were cocoon or kimono shaped, wide through the shoulders and narrower at the hem. Fur coats were popular.
This practicality extended to a new category of clothing – sportswear. Changing attitudes about acceptable activities for women
also made sportswear popular for women, with such notable examples as the bicycling dress, the tennis dress, the golf dress,
the bathing costume, the bicycling dress and the automobile dress. Wikipedia notes:
The notion of "rational dress" for women's health was a widely discussed topic in 1891, which led to the development of sports
dress. This included ample skirts with a belted blouse for hockey. In addition, cycling became very popular and led to the
development of "cycling costumes", which were shorter skirts or "bloomers" which were Turkish trouser style outfits. By the
1890s, women bicyclists increasingly wore bloomers in public and in the company of men as well as other women. Bloomers
seem to have been more commonly worn in Paris than in England or the United States and became quite popular and
fashionable. Swimwear was also developed, usually made of navy blue with a long tunic over full knickers.
Large hats were worn with both day and evening wear at the beginning of the century but by the end of the decade, hats had
smaller drooping brims that shaded the face and deep crowns. Hairstyles shifted from the long trussed hair of the Gibson Girl to
the shorter bob later in the decade.
Trousseaux of the time might include:
For Lady Doll
Shirtwaist
Gored Skirts for day wear
Evening Gown
Coat
Lingerie
For Girl Doll
Multiple dresses
Sailor suits
Multiple hats and bonnets to go with the dresses
Capes
Pelisses
Jacket
Petticaot
Corset
White or brown boots
Gaiters (covering over front of foooooooot with a strap under the instep
Stole and muff
Belt
Parasol
Jewlery, fan, chatelaine and purse
Toilette articles
Sewing supplies
The Kate Greenaway style, the move to practical fashions and the push for more active lifestyles combined to allow girls
freedom in their clothes. High waisted Kate Greenaway styles persisted but bloomers and woolen jerseys were acceptable for
a concept newly appreciated in this era-play. Girls’ dresses were even made with short sleeves to allow more freedom for play.
Girls wore dresses of knee length, with trimmings at the hem such as lace and embroidery similar to women's lingerie dresses.
Normally, black shoes and woolen stockings went with the dress. Their hair was generally worn long and curly with decorations
of ribbon.
Children from 1890-1920s in original clothing
Dolls representing infants were rare. The layettes were generally professionally or home made. The layettes were similar to
the preceding period though the doll may have a rattle added to the layette.
Fashionable clothing for boys included sailor suits, consisting a shirt with a sailor collar and trousers or knickerbockers. For
automobiling, boys wore a duster with knickerbockers, a flat cap, and goggles. The Russian tunic was still popular for boys and
worn over knickers. Overalls and blouse represented little farmers. Dolls representing men usually wore military attire and
costuming appropriate to their position in the doll house.
Resources
Coleman, Dorothy, Elizabeth, and Evelyn. Collector's Book of Dolls' Clothes Costumes in Miniature: 1700-1929. New York:
Crown Publishers 1975.
Gosh, Pat. www.dollcostumersguild.com Site for information on making appropriate period costumes for dolls
Maginnis, Tara, http://www.costumes.org. Site is well organized with excellent pictures and links.
Trestain, Eileen. Dating Fabrics A Color Guide 1800-1960. American Quilters Society, Paducah Ky. 1998.
www.vintageconnection.net resource for information on period costumes including fastenings
www.offray.com resource for history of ribbon
www.fashion-era.com
www.hal.ucr.edu Site for information on Regency dress
www.spnea.org New England History Museum
www.straw.com Reference for the history of dyes
www.vroma.org Reference regarding dress of the Roman Empire
www.history.com History Channel collection of articles
www.pastpatterns.com Overview of history of fashion and person sized patterns from many fashion periods
www.gallery.vintagehatshop.com Resource with pictures of headware throughout history
www.orignals-by-kay.com Overview of history of fashion and patterns from many periods
www.koshka-the-cat.com Overview of history of fashion and person sized patterns from many fashion periods
www.robinstokes.com 1860s prints from Godeys
www.history.rochester.edu/godeys 1850s prints from Godeys
www.usc.edu/e_resources Complete Godeys Ladies Book 1830-1880. Must be a member of USC to access electronically.
Other colleges also have access to this complete information. Contact your local University library for information.
www.marlamallett.com Exquisite examples of lace from her personal collection
