Isho ningyo
Isho-ningyo, dolls created to be beautiful objects for admiration.  These dolls are the Japanese version of the European fashion
dolls.  (Isho=fashion).  Originating in the 17th century to show the clothing and hairstyles of the day, the dolls evolved to
represent a wide range of culture in the Edo period from warriors, to characters from literature to famous prostitutes.  While the
character depicted is inteagral to the doll, the focus of isho was the fashion.  The textiles, the embroidery, the dyeing and
embellishments made these dolls "objects for admiration".    

Silk weaves included pongee, satin, gauze, crepe, velvet, brocades and twill.  Silk weaves and kinran (use of paper backed
gold thread in the pattern) originated and were imported from China.  Velvet on the other hand was imported from Portugese
traders. Decorative techniques were also varied and included special dying, gold or silver threads, patterned weaves.   
However, Japanese culture was very structured.  Much as specific plaids were used for specific clans in Scotland, particular
types and weaves of cloth were reserved for specific classes.  Because of this, throughout history, and similar to the laws
limiting use of certain fabrics in Europe, the Japanese ruling classes limited what colors or textiles could be used by various
groups in society.

While the historical characters important to a culture are portrayed as dolls in both the East and West, the East has a distinction
of elevating the oldest profession to this same position in its culture.  Westerners often misunderstand this due to the difference
in views between the cultures of that particular profession.  During the Edo period, the courtesans were "pop stars" of their day
according to Allen Pate.  
Bijin or beautiful woman were a
popular subject.  Most often seen in a
kosode or grament with smaller
rounded sleeve and smaller wrist
opening.  An overcoat (uchikake) was
often worn loosely without a belt or
sometimes thrown off of one shoulder
coquettishly, or sometimes tied at the
waist (similar to teens tying sweaters
at the waist).
  
Characters of legend, folk tales and
the theatre
  
Mitsouri-ningyo are dolls with joints at
the knee, ankle and hip allowing the
doll to assume seated positions and,
more importantly, to be readily
dressed and played with.
  
Animals
  
Katsura-gae-ningyo (doll with wigs)
  
Torei-ningyo or friendship dolls, a
type of ichimatsu, developed at the
end of the 19th century and is more
similar to the traditional Western play
doll.  It generally depicts a young boy
or girl of about 6 years old.  The 58
ichimatsu dolls designed specifically
to be sent to the US in response to
the goodwill gesture of Reverend
Sidney Gulick in 1924 (who sent more
than 12,000 blue eyes dolls to Japan
as a gesture of good will subsequent
to the Oriental Exclusion Act of 1924)
were identified as Friendship
dolls--ambassadors of friendship
between the two countries.  While the
gesture was auspicious, the reality of
World War II precipitated the storage
of the dolls in the US and the
destruction of the dolls that had been
sent to Japan.  Note the symbolism of
the destruction of the dolls on both
sides of the ocean at the beginning of
the War followed by the removal (but
not destruction) of the Musha-ningyo
(warrior dolls) in Japan at the end of
the War.  Efforts have been made to
restore the original friendship dolls.  
Perhaps the dolls and the friendship
can last this time.
Miss Fukushima
Copyright Alan Pate